"If one looks at pictures of food in magazines, the substantial category which prevails is that of the smooth coating: there is an obvious endeavor
to glaze surfaces, to round them off, to bury the food under the even sediment of sauces, creams, icing and jellies. This of course comes from the very finality of the coating, which belongs to a visual category, and cooking according to Elle is meant for
the eye alone, since sight is a genteel sense."